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Nine refrigerant leakage parts and solutions

Nine refrigerant leakage parts and solutions 1. Leakage of the evaporator 　　 There are many welding ports on the left and right sides of the evaporator, and there may be more leakage points. The leakage of the newly installed air conditioner is mainly due to the poor welding technology of the employees of the air conditioner production plant. If the copper pipe is not red (temperature does not reach 600 ℃ ~ 700 ℃), the electrode is placed at the welding port, the copper pipe and The solder did not fuse together, resulting in pinch welding, slag, and non-smoothness. 　　 The newly installed air conditioner, after opening the outdoor unit shut-off valve, after exhausting the indoor unit air, the sound of the indoor unit evaporator leakage can sometimes be heard with the ear, and the air conditioner leakage can be seen, and the evaporator welding point can not be ignored. If you find a leak in the evaporator, it is best to remove it for welding. In order to prevent the hot flame from baking and deforming the plastic shell of the evaporator, it cannot explain to the user. The method of disassembly is: 　　 (1) Identify missing points and mark them well. 　　 (2) If there is still refrigerant in the refrigeration system, first store the refrigerant in the outdoor unit. 　　 (3) Use two 8-inch or 10-inch wrenches to remove the connection lock of the indoor unit and remove the electrical box on the right side of the indoor unit. 　　 (4) Remove the fixed pipeline and clamping plate on the rear side of the evaporator, and remove the left and right positioning screws of the indoor evaporator. 　　 (5) The left hand gently lifts the pipeline 20 from the rear side of the indoor unit to move the evaporator forward. After pulling the evaporator 5cm out with the right hand, rotate the evaporator 90 degrees with both hands and pull it out along the pipe. Pay attention to two-handed operation, do not knock down the fins. After removing the evaporator, put it in a flat and clean place, and wipe off the oil stains on the leakage point with a dry cloth. The leak point is welded with silver welding. After checking the pressure to confirm that there is no leakage, install the evaporator back to the plastic frame of the indoor unit in the reverse order of disassembly. 　　 2. Leakage of indoor unit connection 　　 The air conditioner is operating normally, and the indoor unit has no cold air blowing out, indicating that the refrigeration system is faulty. If oil traces are found at the connection points of the indoor unit, it means that the refrigerant is leaking here. First use two wrenches to tighten the "nazi" at the connection, and then use the washing spirit to rub out the foam and apply it, and check whether there are bubbles blowing out at the connection. If not, R22 gas refrigerant can be added from the bypass nozzle of the low-pressure gas valve, subject to the low-pressure 0.5MPa. Shut down with the washing spirit and then check the sub-station. After 3 to 5 minutes, no bubbles are generated, which indicates that the air leakage at the joint is eliminated. If leaking R22 bubbles are detected by the cleaning spirit, it means that the pipe bell mouth is cracked or damaged, and the bell mouth must be remade. Before making, first turn on the power, set the cooling state with the remote control, and let the compressor run for 5 minutes. Then close the low-pressure liquid valve first, and then close the low-pressure gas valve after 40-50 seconds. At this time, touch the off button of the remote control with your hand to stop the air conditioner. Use two 10-inch wrenches to unscrew the lock nut at the connection of the indoor unit, check the damage of the bell mouth and analyze the cause of the leakage, so as to accumulate more maintenance experience. The production method of the bell mouth is: remove the original damaged bell mouth with a cutter, and then put the copper pipe into the pipe expansion chuck of the same caliber of the special pipe expander, and tighten the nuts on both sides. The upper mouth of the copper pipe should be higher than 1/3 of the slope depth of the trumpet. Use a knife to flatten the mouth of the copper pipe. And remove the burr inside the nozzle. Use a soft cloth to dip the copper scraps in the copper tube to prevent the copper scraps from mixing into the refrigeration system and causing the filter to block, causing the fault to expand. After the nozzle is visually flattened, press the expanding taper of the top pressure device against the nozzle. Hold the expansion clamp with the left hand and tighten the expansion cone handle of the screw with the right hand. The action should be even and slow. For 5 reasons, turn back 2/5 times and repeat until the nozzle can be expanded into a 90o+0.5 bell shape. The bell mouth produced by this operation method is round, smooth and free of cracks. The bell mouth should be noted that the chuck must firmly clamp the copper tube, otherwise the copper pipe will easily move backward when the mouth is expanded, causing the height of the bell mouth to be insufficient or skewed, and it is still easy to leak refrigerant after connection. 　　After the bell mouth is made, align the lock nut with the screw buckle by hand, and then use the wrench to tighten the torque. After the pipeline is connected, how to discharge the air in the evaporator and the connecting pipe is an operation link that beginners must master. If the evacuation is not good, a large amount of air is mixed in the system, which will cause the entire refrigeration system to work abnormally, resulting in failures such as reduced cooling capacity, increased current, increased pressure, and shortened compressor life. 　　Moisture in the air enters the system and causes a chemical reaction with the refrigerant, which will increase the corrosion of the system, promote the aging of the compressor coil, destroy the insulation strength, increase the flash point of the lubricating oil, and shorten the service life of the compressor. Therefore, removing the air in the evaporator and the pipeline is the key link that the maintenance personnel must master. 　　 The method of venting is to loosen the half-turn of the low-pressure gas lock, open the low-pressure liquid shut-off valve with an allen wrench for about 1/2 turn, and close it as soon as you hear a "hiss" sound from the low-pressure gas. When the "hissing" sound of the bottom-pressure gas shut-off valve disappears, open the low-pressure liquid shut-off valve again for 1/2 turn, close it immediately after 15 seconds, and repeat the operation 3 times to drain the air. The specific number of operations and the length of time should be flexibly used depending on the size of the evaporator and the length of the pipeline. Some maintenance personnel do not release the low-pressure gas lock, but exhaust the air from the bypass air nozzle, which is undesirable. 　　 3. Leakage of outdoor unit cut-off valve core The leakage of the outdoor unit's cut-off spool mostly occurs after the machine is moved. Due to the back and forth rotation of the switch valve shaft, and the aging of the rubber ring, the outer rubber seal of the shaft is worn out, which causes the cut-off valve to leak. , You can find a small bubble in about 3 minutes. The method of adding an asbestos round gasket in the secondary sealing cap can eliminate the small leakage fault. If the leakage is serious, you can hear the "hiss" sound, and you can release the refrigerant from the low-pressure gas lock of the outdoor unit. At the time of discharge, 0.1MPa pressure refrigerant should be left in the tube to prevent the system from entering the air and bring about the trouble of vacuuming. 　　 The operation method is: remove the stop ring of the stop valve and use needle-nose pliers. Use an Allen wrench to unscrew the globe valve screw. Use your left hand to block the leak. The right hand quickly coils 4 turns of raw material tape around the screw and seal ring of the screw, and quickly turns the globe valve screw into a snap ring. Then wrap the raw material tape 2~3 times on the secondary sealing screw, and put on the secondary sealing cap. 　　Add F22 refrigerant from the filling point of the low-pressure gas cut-off bypass valve. When the gauge pressure reaches 0.3MPa, turn on the remote control and continue to add R22 gas to 0.45MPa. When adding gas, it should be added slowly, and do not rush to avoid excessive R22 gas, which will increase the maintenance cost. After R22 gas is added as required, let the air conditioner stop running for 3~5 minutes. After the refrigerant gas in the system is balanced and the pressure rises, use Xiuling to check the leak at the outer seal of the secondary seal. Confirming that there is no leakage, it means that the raw material tape coiled around the screw of the stop valve is well sealed, and the leakage fault is eliminated. 　　 Fourth, outdoor compressor U-tube leakage The leakage of the U-shaped exhaust pipe of outdoor compressors is more common. The main reason is that the copper pipe wall is thin and the material is poor. After bending into a U-shaped bend, a small crack occurs. The vibration generated by the compressor during work causes the crack to increase . Most of this leakage failure will leak gas, and when the indoor unit blows out without cold wind, it will be discovered after inspection. 　　 The repair method is: wipe the oil spot of the leakage point with a soft cloth, and use silver welding to weld the crack of the copper pipe. Before welding, it is best to find a section of copper pipe that is thicker than the outer diameter of the exhaust pipe, saw it with a hacksaw, and wrap it in the crack to prevent leakage from vibration from here. 　　 Never remove the U-shaped tube during maintenance, as this will cause the high-temperature and high-pressure refrigerant gas discharged from the compressor to directly enter the condenser, which will reduce the heat dissipation of the condenser and the cooling capacity. At the same time, the compressor will vibrate when it is working. After the U-shaped pipe is welded, add R22 gas from the bypass nozzle of the low-pressure gas stop valve. Pressure test leak detection, if no bubbles are blown out from the welding port, it means that the U-tube leakage troubleshooting. 　　 Fifth, outdoor unit capillary vibration wear and tear 　　The air conditioner is not cooling, and the refrigerant leakage may also be caused by the vibration caused by the compressor working, which causes the two tubes to resonate and rub, and the tube wall is worn out, so that the refrigerant leaks light. 　　 Example: A Hisense KFR-33GW split-type air conditioner does not cool, and it is found that the capillary is worn out. The method of elimination is: saw the 6mm red copper tube with a saw, wrap it around the capillary leak, and then weld it with silver welding. Capillaries with the same inner diameter and the same specifications can also be replaced. Before replacing welding, there shall be no flammable and explosive materials within 1.5m around. There should be an iron plate behind the capillary. 　　 When welding, the flame should not be too large, it is better to use a neutral flame to fire, the temperature reaches about 600 ℃, quickly put the silver electrode into the welding port. The solder and copper tube melted together and the torch left quickly, otherwise the capillary tube would be blown out. This technique requires maintenance personnel to slowly understand the welding process and gradually master the welding technology. 　　 Sixth, low pressure bypass valve core leakage 　　Split type air conditioner refrigeration system replenishes refrigerant (commonly known as "fluoridation"), must be filled from the low-pressure bypass. Use the filling tube with a thimble to push the low-pressure filling valve stem open, and the r22 refrigerant gas of the refrigerant cylinder and the refrigerant gas of the air conditioner are connected to start filling. 　　 The cause of the spool leakage is: the thimble of the air filling pipe is adjusted too long, and the thimble of the bypass vent valve cannot be rebounded after pushing in, so that the spool cannot be reset. The method of elimination is to insert the key of the special air conditioner into the air filling spool, give a force to the spool to make the spool spring pop out, and the spool air leakage failure can be eliminated. 　　 Seven, compressor terminal leakage 　　According to experience, compressor terminal leakage, accounting for more than 2% of leakage failures, remove the overcurrent and overheat protector cover, if you see oil marks around the compressor terminal, it means there is a leak. 　　 The method of elimination is: first unplug the power supply of the air conditioner, and write a note "Someone repairs the air conditioner on the top of the building, suddenly insert the power supply" and hang it on the socket. In order to prevent maintenance personnel from repairing the outdoor compressor on the top floor; indoor personnel accidentally plug in the power supply, causing personal electric shock. Then use the F22 gauge to test the pressure of the system at the low pressure gas filling bypass valve. If the pressure in the system is zero at this time, the system can be filled with refrigerant gas at a pressure of 0.3 MPa first, so as to avoid no pressure in the system. When leak detection is carried out with the scrubber, the scrubber enters the compressor oil through the leakage point, causing compression Machine shaft accident. The pressure gauge test system is under pressure. You can use the washing spirit to rub out the foam to check the leakage point of the terminal to change who makes a mark. Use a dry cloth to stick alcohol to wipe off the oil around the terminal, and use sandpaper to polish the new ballast around the terminal, and then use a steel saw blade to mark the new ballast to facilitate the adhesion of the adhesive. At this time, the gas of the system is released, the vacuum pump is connected, and the system is evacuated. When the system pressure reaches negative 0.1MPa, it is prepared with C31 double tube glue at a ratio of 1:1 and smeared at the wiring. 　　Because the refrigeration system is in a vacuum state, C31 glue penetrates into the leakage point. After the leakage point is glued, it needs to be baked in the adhesive place with a 100W bulb for 30 minutes to make the glue more easily penetrate into the leakage point. Note that the distance between the bulb baking C31 glue is not too close, 20cm away from the C31 glue is appropriate, otherwise baking the glue and flowing around the compressor will reduce the leakage plugging effect. After the compressor terminal is glued for 2 hours, it can be suppressed and leaked. Finally, the test machine was evacuated and fluorinated to restore refrigeration. 　　 Eight, pipeline deflated leak 　　The four deflated leaks of the pipeline mostly appear after home decoration. Some decoration workers do not understand that there is refrigerant in the refrigeration pipeline; they bend casually, because there is a heat insulation sleeve outside the pipeline, it is not easy to be found after the collapse. After the pipeline collapsed, the refrigerant leaked out, and the fluoride was added again when the refrigeration system was turned on. 　　 Example: A KRR-32GW split air conditioner does not cool. Test the pressure with a pressure gauge. The pressure gauge shows negative pressure. After the gas is added to 0.45MPa, the noise of the compressor increases and no cold air is blown out of the indoor unit. Remove the casing of the indoor unit, touch the evaporator without cooling, peel off the insulation cover of the indoor unit pipeline, and find that the low-pressure liquid tube is deflated. Remove the concave deflated cutoff point with a cutter, adopt the method of butting the outer casing, after welding with silver welding, re-press, leak check, evacuate, add fluoride, and turn on the remote control. However, the above symptoms continued to appear in the air conditioner, indicating that there were still two interceptions in the pipeline. Continue to peel off the insulation of the outdoor pipeline, and found that the low-pressure gas pipe of the outdoor pipeline was also collapsed. After repairing and welding the outdoor pipeline, use the remote control to turn on the air conditioner to resume cooling. 　　 Nine, four-way valve leakage 　　The three copper pipes under the four-way valve of the cooling and heating air conditioner leak more at the angle. If oil traces are found at the angle, there is a leak. The repair method is: first use a towel to wipe off the oil marks at the angle, and use the washing spirit to detect the leakage, mark the leakage point with a steel needle, then release the refrigerant, and wrap the four-way directional valve with a wet towel cool down. When welding, you must master the flame technology according to your own, aim at the leak, and when the angle reaches the welding temperature, quickly spot the silver electrode for welding. The operation method should be quick, strive for a successful welding, and the pressure test should not leak. 　　Beginners encounter four-way reversing valve angle leakage failure, it is best to use glue to repair the leak. Due to the close angle between the slider of the nylon valve core and the leakage point, plus the difficulty of the back welding, improper operation will cause the valve core to bake and deform. Once the four-way valve slider is connected in series, the air conditioner is not hot or cold, and the original small leak has become a major failure that must be replaced by the four-way valve. This has caused time and economic losses to users. The four-way valve angle adhesive method is the same as the compressor adhesive method. After the pressure test for leak detection, evacuation, and fluoride, the air conditioner reversing valve angle leakage problem can be eliminated and refrigeration can be restored.

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